Here’s a clip from 1941’s Tommorow Always Comes, a promotional piece featuring New Form slips by Bur-Mil Fabrics (Burlington Mills).
While this features loads of lovely slips, the story line and production of the entire project is a little quirky and strange…
The New Form slips featured fagoted seams and “Can’t Ride Technology.” I can’t explain the “Can’t Ride” any more or better than they did, but I can educate you on fagot stitching.
The following comes from American Dressmaking Step by Step, by Mme. Lydia Trattles Coates, 1917.
Fagoting is done in many ways. Its design may be very simple, as shown below, or it may be nearly as elaborate as drawn work. It is used to join ribbons, folds, bands, or braids.
To Make the Plain Fagot Stitch
1. Baste the work on thin oilcloth or stiff paper, basting the two edges as far apart as you wish the width of the fagoting, as the edges must be kept at an even distance.
2. Bring the thread up through the edge of the fold.
3. Draw the thread diagonally across to the opposite edge and hold down with the thumb of the left hand.
4. Place the needle through the fold, bringing it out through the under edge of the fold, over the thread held down by left hand. Proceed to opposite side, making the thread fall as shown in the illustration.
The Plain Fagot Stitch is another form of Buttonhole Stitch, except that the needle points in one direction for the first stitch, and in the opposite direction for the next stitch. Continue in the same manner.
Also, from Paris Frocks at Home, 1930, here’s fagot hemstitching:
Fagot hemstitching is made like double hemstitching except that in the second row half the threads of one cluster and half the threads of the next cluster are combined in one group. This gives a slanting or serpentine effect to the drawn work. See illustration 122. For this type of hemstitching, the groups must contain an even number of threads so that they can be divided evenly when the second row of sewing is made. A symmetrical effect and perfection of detail is the charm of this hand work. Take your time. Needle work will not be hurried. Better none at all than hemstitching carelessly done.
This publication also has notes specifically for lingerie:
Lingerie touches must be dainty.
Lingerie touches on dresses should be of the very finest and should be sewed in as carefully after each washing as though you expected them to be attached indefinitely. Carelessly basted-in neck and cuff frills can give a hit-or-miss, ungroomed look to one’s whole costume.
Let us also resort to a French trick to forever end that hitching-up-the-shoulder-strap habit. Sew a tiny little strap inside your dress on the shoulder seam. This little stay you slip under your assortment of shoulder straps and snap against your shoulder seam. The slipping and sliding pink ribbon no longer tumbles down your arm but sets firmly on the top of your shoulder where it was always intended to be.